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Kagoshima

Tenderloin wagyu Japanese Kagoshima A4

Tenderloin wagyu Japanese Kagoshima A4

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Meats from Japan with incredible tenderness and full flavor, along with well-balanced marbling.

Kagoshima black cattle are blessed by the sun and natural environment of a warm tropical island. There are four different breeds of cattle

Japanese black cattle from Kagoshima Prefecture are the most numerous in Japan

It is one of the most important and sought-after specialty cuts of beef, and is the tender "heart" of the sirloin steak. It is the premium cut of meat located between the 6th and 12th thoracic vertebrae.
When the rib eye steak is removed from the bone, it yields a clean, oval piece of meat, the best quality steak, consisting of two distinct muscles. It has a round shape, like an eye, hence its name, the "eye of the steak". It has great flavor and tenderness due to its excellent fat distribution.

The history of Wagyu, then, begins somewhere in the late 19th century, when Emperor Meiji the Great regained power. Since then, Japan began to evolve and transform from an introverted and feudal state into an industrializing superpower. With the restoration of imperial rule, the period of reform (Westernization) of the country began; the morals, but also the eating habits of the Japanese people, were changing. The ban on meat consumption was lifted, so beef gained a place in Japanese cuisine. After 1868, when many Japanese were introduced to European and North American customs and daily practices, the consumption of beef became fashionable in large cities. The encouragement of this consumption can be seen as part of the new regime’s efforts to redefine the Japanese physique in a way that would make it more attractive to Westerners, thus facilitating Japan’s entry into the ranks of those countries where the average height was higher than that of the Japanese. To further this goal, the government supported the production and consumption of beef. In 1871, it abolished the monopoly on meat production by hereditary groups, and in 1872, it made sure to publicize not only the emperor’s position and the thinker Fukuzawa Yukichi’s article “On Eating Meat,” but also the related discussions among intellectuals, giving a premium to literary renditions of the new lifestyles. Thus, although Wagyu beef was created and raised in Japan, its inclusion in Japanese cuisine is, in fact, a clear demonstration of Western influence on Japanese customs, which also marks a significant turning point in Japanese history.

In the 1880s, the Japanese decided to import animals from European cattle breeds and cross-breed them with Japanese ones. Thus, the old breeds of working animals evolved into meat-producing ones. From these emerged various breeds of cattle, which still dominate the Japanese beef trade today. Among them, only four, however, are true Wagyu breeds:

Japanese Black | The black Japanese breed, their meat is prized for its intense marbling. As 90% of Wagyu comes from the black Japanese breed, when someone says "Wagyu", they are usually referring to Japanese black cattle.
Japanese Brown | The brown Japanese breed, a leaner, healthier breed of cattle, known for the mild flavor of its meat.
Japanese Shorthorn | Japanese Shorthorn. Although also lean, Japanese Shorthorn meat is rich in inosinate and glutamic acid, two valuable acids that give it a saltier flavor.
Japanese Polled | Japanese Polled: With lean meat like Brown and Shorthorn, Japanese Polled meat is renowned for its more pleasant texture and rich, meaty flavor.

In the beginning there was a black cow
Everything you need to know about Wagyu beef and especially Kobe meat
“Wagyu” refers to any cattle raised in Japan or … in the Japanese way. Where Wagyu, loosely translated, means “Japanese cattle” (“Wa” means Japanese or Japanese style and “gyu” means cow or cattle, in general). Simply put, “Wagyu” means “Japanese cow”. In order for Wagyu meat to be categorized as Kobe, it must come from a very special member of the Wagyu breed, called Tajima-Gyu, which is raised under strict protocols in the Hyogo prefecture. As Wagyu meat was often transported from Kobe to Yokohama – the commercial port in the Tokyo metropolitan area – it began to be highly valued by foreigners living there. Its fans are also credited with the slogan: “What other, Kobe beef!”

But what makes Wagyu stand out from other types of cattle? And what makes Kobe beef so special that it often commands the highest prices (per kilo) on the market?
Those who raise Wagyu cattle raise them with great care. They feed them milk until they are 3 months old. After three months, the calves are fed a mixture of grass, rice straw and cereals (corn, soybeans and wheat). The diet of Kobe cattle is common to all other Wagyu, but each farm slightly differentiates the food it gives its cattle. In addition to corn or cornmeal, which is a basic requirement, they add oats, wheat, barley, soybeans, but also sugarcane silage or cocoa nibs (fragments of the seeds enclosed in the cocoa fruit). Most animals consume both straw and hay, as they would consume in their natural habitats. It is worth mentioning that in recent years two livestock farmers, one in Japan and one in the Netherlands, have adopted a different diet enriched with a delicious, easily digestible and safe paste made from pure olive pulp, which comes from roasted "waste" from olive mills.

It is sometimes said that ranchers massage their cattle to reduce muscle tension caused by confined spaces.
There are many myths surrounding Wagyu breeding. It is said that they live in… spa conditions, that they are provided with “gourmet” food, that they are massaged with beer and made to listen to classical music to relax. Although none of these myths have been debunked, it does not mean that they are the norm. Producers follow very strict breeding guidelines and some have actually invented special methods that allow Wagyu to live a lazy and calm life. They can listen to music, but it is not necessary. What is certain is that the calm life and laziness of these cattle helps to increase the percentage of intramuscular fat (marbling) and contributes to its unique distribution, which makes Wagyu beef so delicious and sought after. Because its "waters," the thin, white fibers of fat that melt while the meat is cooking, allow it to remain tender, juicy, and therefore flavorful. And because the melting point of its fat is lower than the average human body temperature, it melts, pleasantly, in the mouth.

Part of its appeal is its aroma, a unique, sweet coconut aroma. A relatively recent study in the Journal of Agricultural & Food Chemistry identified sixteen compounds that give it this distinctive smell, ten of which are directly linked to the meat. The strongest elements, however, are compounds derived from fatty acids. The excess fat, its distribution and the different composition of fatty acids are due, on the one hand, to a genetic characteristic of this particular breed of cattle – but also to their diet, which is such that their intramuscular fat reaches 30 – 40 % of the muscle volume – and, on the other hand, to the fact that the calves continue to be raised until the age of 30 months.

Marbling: The Wagyu Difference
The result of these breeding methods combined with longer fattening periods are the key factors in the taste superiority of Wagyu meat. Marbling gives Wagyu a better taste. Their fat melts at a lower temperature than any other cattle, resulting in a rich, buttery flavor that is not noticeable in meats from other breeds. This fat is unsaturated and rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, which means that marbling not only makes them tastier, but also healthier. Wagyu, despite the breed's genetically increased predisposition to the creation of intramuscular fat, also produces a high percentage of unsaturated fatty acids such as omega-3 fatty acids, which balance the corresponding percentage of omega-6 fatty acids and therefore help reduce bad cholesterol and fight heart disease.

Quality assessment of Wagyu meat
Another very important factor that determines the quality of Wagyu is its grades. In some specialized butcher shops or in the menus of high-end meat restaurants we usually read an indication of A5. This is its evaluation, which was given to it by members of the Japan Meat Grading Association. The categories marked with letters from A to C refer to the yield percentage of quality meat of each cow. A is the highest grade of this yield and C the lowest. Each letter is followed by a number (from 1-5), which refers to the quality grade. Where 5 is excellent, 4 is good, 3 is average, 2 is below average and 1 is poor.
The evaluation is based on four criteria:
1. Marbling (the distribution of intramuscular fat in meat)
2. The color of the meat in relation to its brightness
3. The firmness and texture of the meat
4. The color in relation to the shine and quality of its fat

Regarding the categories of "Sashi" (i.e. marbling, in Japanese) there is a further evaluation, the Beef Marble Score (BMS), with a rating from 1-12.
According to BMS, excellent intramuscular fat is rated between 8-12, good from 5-7, average from 3-4, the next lowest level with 2 and the minimum with 1. So A5 is the highest quality Japanese Wagyu and therefore the most expensive and best score that an A5 could get is A5-12, which is very rare. Understanding the logic of this rating system, one can buy or order the meat in the restaurant that they wish to pay accordingly.
All of this information goes some way to explaining why in countries like the United States the cost of the best Wagyu steaks easily exceeds $300.
Besides, the price for a (live) Wagyu cow can reach $30,000. In 2002, in Japan, a Wagyu cow was sold for about $400,000. It was a record and is the highest price, so far, that such a cow has fetched.

And Wagyu burgers?
Is it really worth ordering a Wagyu burger? I would say no. The whole charm of Wagyu meat lies in its unique texture, its very good marbling and its tenderness. Therefore, if the meat is ground into minced meat and turned into patties or burgers, it will be tender, but its taste difference compared to any other (common) burger will be small to imperceptible.

Why are the prices of genuine Kobe beef so high?
I would say that Kobe beef is the epitome of everything that makes Wagyu beef great. Any Kobe cut is considered to have the most intense marbling in the world, with many beautifully distributed creamy, flavorful streaks of fat, allowing one to characterize a steak as “fatty.” A major factor in the quality of Kobe steaks is the strict regulations that the region imposes on the raising of its cattle. To be called Kobe, they must meet the following seven standards at slaughter:
1. Be either a Bullock (castrated ox) or a virgin cow.
2. Belong to the Tajima-Gyu clan and must have been born in the Hyogo region.
3. Be raised on a farm in Hyogo prefecture.
4. The meat must have been processed within Hyogo prefecture.
5. The marbling score (BMS) must reach at least 6 or higher – on a 12-point scale.
6. The meat quality rating should reach 4 or exceed it on a 5-point scale.
7. Finally, the total weight of the carcass should not exceed 470 kilograms.

Because of all these, and such strict standards, only 3,000 to 4,000 cattle are certified as genuine Kobe each year. And the 200 to 300 farms that raise these Japanese cattle are few, compared to the thousands that raise non-Japanese Wagyu cattle. And of the cattle raised on Wagyu farms, those that are ultimately certified as Kobe beef are even fewer. And since, after slaughter, most of them are shipped within the country, prices for those exclusive cuts that are exported to other countries can reach unimaginable heights.

Kobe and other toponymic indications
There are many types of Japanese black cattle, including Tajima-Gyu. The famous, and therefore most sought-after, Wagyu breeds – all from Tajima-Gyu – also carry a toponymic indication of origin (brand of beef). Kobe lovers swear by its name, although other regions also raise excellent Wagyu: Matsusaka, Yonezaw, Omi, Hida. Some of the more knowledgeable still prefer meat from Ishigaki Island (in the Okinawa archipelago) or from Maesawa and Sanda. Kobe beef may be the crème de la crème and the most sought-after and most expensive beef in the world, but in recent years another region has also been rising. This is Tottori Prefecture – where the famous Matsuba crab (snow crab) is also caught. So, there, on Mount Chugoku, at an altitude of 1,729 m, is where the now famous Tottori Wagyu is raised, sweeping the awards in all quality competitions in Japan. So, keep this place name in mind.

So, is genuine Kobe beef only found in Japan?
Japan is the “creator” of Kobe beef. That much is not disputed. In fact, an American foodie named Larry Olmsted once exposed the Kobe steak scam with an in-depth article in Forbes that shed light on the Japanese Wagyu industry in countries other than Japan. Olmsted, knowing that Japanese beef was not allowed to be imported into the United States at the time, refuted the argument of various famous restaurants that they supposedly served authentic Kobe. Of course, a few years later, Olmsted updated his article to say that some small quantities of Kobe beef were now available in the United States. You see, the USDA began, in 2012, to allow the import of Japanese beef into the country.

"Domestic" Wagyu beef and Kobe-Style beef
In recent years, young Wagyu cattle have been exported from Japan to third countries, such as Australia and America. In these countries - referred to as "Domestic Wagyu" - they are raised in controlled breeding programs that ensure Wagyu quality. In America, 90% of genuine "domestic" Wagyu is rated USDA Prime. Prime steaks are the highest possible grade given to beef and can refer to a variety of cuts - from filet mignon and flat iron to burgers.
I note again that the term “Kobe beef” is only allowed to be a trademark in Japan – and not outside its borders. Of course, dubious restaurants and butchers, as well as wholesalers, will always try to promote non-authentic cuts of beef as Kobe, Kobe-Style or Wagyu, in order to charge a higher price for them.

Is there authentic Wagyu outside of Japan?
In the United States, for example, where meat eating has become synonymous with a very particular lifestyle (see meat house, meat diners, bbq parties), since the 1970s when the first Japanese cattle were imported into the country, they have been raising their own Wagyu. The breeding and registration of these cattle is managed by the famous American Wagyu Association, which also controls the Wagyu of Canada, Australia, and several other countries.

How can we tell if the Wagyu beef we bought is Japanese or if our Kobe steak is authentic?
Genuine Kobe beef – whether from Japan or raised in another country – carries clear signs that can help us determine whether what we are being asked to pay for is genuine. Anyone who buys, sells or serves Kobe cuts should be well-versed in the criteria that distinguish Kobe beef (and how much it costs).
Ask if they know where the cut they recommend comes from.
Correct answer: Hyogo Prefecture.
What breed of cattle does it come from?
Correct answer: Tajima.
What is his BMS? Correct answer: between 6-12.
If they don't know what to answer, it's probably not authentic Kobe.

When buying "Wagyu" or "Kobe-Style" meat
Finally, as we see Wagyu crossbreeds, which are raised in other countries. The meats must, as we said, be labeled "Domestic Wagyu". Make sure you buy from a reputable vendor who sources beef from breeders who ensure pure “lines” through controlled breeding. Otherwise, you risk buying what is called “Percentage Wagyu,” that is, beef from Wagyu animals that have been crossed with European or American or Australian breeds.
Wagyu that has been raised according to all Kobe protocols also carries the "Kobe-style" label. Excluding, of course, authentic cattle, that is, cattle born, raised and slaughtered within Hyogo prefecture.
Although "Kobe-style" scams are rarer than "Kobe," they do happen. You should refer to Kobe standards before purchasing "Kobe-style" beef, and you should make sure that your vendor/server only knows what "Kobe-style" means.
Finally, it goes without saying that there is no such thing as a "Wagyu-Style" label. Since Wagyu beef comes only from specific breeds of cattle that we mentioned, there is no question of either breeding or raising. No one can present a cut as “Wagyu style” if it doesn’t come from Wagyu. Cattle are either genetically certified Wagyu or they are not.

Photos: Getty Images / Ideal Image

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